Tuesday, March 4, 2008
Monday, March 3, 2008
竹宮城
竹宮城飄進仙台香
和牛甘刺身鮮 抽風弱成身煙
【明報專訊】源自仙台的竹宮城，首家海外分店進駐香港，秉承日本食肆「專注」的特質，店子只賣燒肉及壽司；同時也傳承了部分日本名牌的低調作風，不單選址於僻靜的樓上舖，還刻意不宣傳，但摸上門來的，都是竹宮城饗客，招攬客人「重質不重量」。食探「盲摸摸」找到竹宮城，準備感受完全日式飲食文化。
背景 仙台名牌首次登港
竹宮城一直只在仙台及名古屋開設分店，今破例前來香港開業，緣繫香港店老闆陳先生，在一次生意洽談中認識了竹宮城的老闆，兩位認為合作條件合適，便於去年12月開設日本境外第一間分店。在日本，竹宮城分兩條路線，每店只有一種食物，壽司或燒肉，香港店則兼售兩線出品，但偏重燒肉，壽司為次。香港店的師傅全部由日本竹宮城調派來港，所有器皿、食材同樣來自仙台，務以原裝風味呈現眼前。
試食報告
服務 壽司拼盤 選材師傅話事
食探體驗﹕菜牌中、日文兼備，但排列稍為混亂，幸得店員耐心介紹，並建議客人到壽司吧前揀選時令食品，令食探嘗到時令食材和招牌菜式。菜式一道接一道呈上，食探可逐一細味每一道菜。
店員Janice回應﹕店員並非日本人，但部分員工懂日文，能應付日籍客人需要。菜式分次序奉客是師傅要求。若客人點叫刺身或壽司拼盤，挑選哪一款食材是師傅決定，客人只可要求不吃什麼，但不可指定吃什麼，故店員不會明確告訴客人拼盤包羅哪款刺身。
環境 抽風力不足 炊煙刺眼
食探體驗﹕店子大廳以木色為主調，配以壽司吧及青竹，和風感十足，食探坐的廂房擺設與大廳無異，卻備有電視，耳邊響起日本音樂，同時傳來無铫電視《東張西望》聲音，破壞了場地的寧謐氛圍。燒肉時，房間抽風系統明顯不夠強，衣服沾上大量燒肉味外，炊煙更達「刺眼」程度。
店員Janice回應﹕香港店的設計與日本有別，但保留了竹宮城的元素，刺身櫃也由仙台運抵。老闆認為香港人需要電視，故特別在廂房裝置了一部，迎合需要。我們也知道抽風機不夠強，會盡快更換。
■食物
壽司拼盤 海膽腥魚子鮮
食探體驗﹕壽司賣相精緻，整齊並列，刺身肥美有光澤，令食探件件都想試，猶豫不決。米飯微溫，醋味恰當，黏稠適中，水準不錯。海膽與本地吃到的味道不同，此處吃到的味道較腥。三文魚子也與我們一貫咬下「卜」一聲爆開的口感不同，這裏的魚子不分外層內層，一粒魚子就是一個整體，沒有「卜」一聲的趣味，味卻更鮮。拖羅脂香四溢，飽滿豐腴。
總廚新妻康男回應﹕壽司拼盤的食材全部屬時令，故每次點叫，配搭都不一樣。米是仙台入口的ササニシキ米，沒有攙入其他米種，很純正。暖飯配冷魚，師傅手握後5秒是品嘗的最佳時間，客人坐在壽司吧，便能把握這最美味一刻。
和牛里脊肉 蘸海鹽夠滋味
食探體驗﹕本想點叫仙台名物——燒牛舌，可惜無貨。和牛油脂平均，略炙吃下，牛味並不突出，相反完全炙熟，肉味較豐。後來發現兩排牛肉味道不一，一排牛味較輕。餐廳提供兩款醬料，但食探發現蘸海鹽食用，更加滋味。
總廚新妻康男回應﹕此乃A3和牛，另有A5和牛選擇。夏天時戶外座位開放，客人可以炭燒牛肉，風味更佳。和牛味道不一，應是不同部位所致。
黑豚頸肉 油膩卻甘香
食探體驗﹕部分豚肉上桌時白色一片，只有脂肪沒有肉，燒香後雖然油膩，卻非常甘香，比預期中美味。同樣，灑上些許海鹽食用，更能引出肉香。
總廚新妻康男回應﹕此店用仙台黑豚肉，日本人燒烤時習慣一塊一塊的烤，肉片才不會變「柴口」。
刺身拼盤 貝類更勝魚類
食探體驗﹕刺身有8款，件頭小，數量也小，食探每人每款吃一件便已吃光。各款刺身都有新鮮食材才有的彈牙口感，平均而言，貝類比魚類的刺身更出色。
總廚新妻康男回應﹕所有刺身都由仙台石卷魚市場入口，一星期來貨2至3次，直接訂貨關係，每次運抵機場，不經中間人，廚師會在凌晨3時親自取貨，回店放入雪櫃，食材非常新鮮。若客人同時點叫壽司及刺身拼盤，師傅便會給與不同的刺身，盡量不重複。
Mission﹕在仙台及名古屋共有30間店的「竹宮城」，在香港開設首家海外分店，水準如何，馬上分曉！
後記：友人及後一試，水準以下，魚生乾水，難道意式 Parma Ham 融入此家烹調？好一篇鮮稿！
和牛甘刺身鮮 抽風弱成身煙
【明報專訊】源自仙台的竹宮城，首家海外分店進駐香港，秉承日本食肆「專注」的特質，店子只賣燒肉及壽司；同時也傳承了部分日本名牌的低調作風，不單選址於僻靜的樓上舖，還刻意不宣傳，但摸上門來的，都是竹宮城饗客，招攬客人「重質不重量」。食探「盲摸摸」找到竹宮城，準備感受完全日式飲食文化。
背景 仙台名牌首次登港
竹宮城一直只在仙台及名古屋開設分店，今破例前來香港開業，緣繫香港店老闆陳先生，在一次生意洽談中認識了竹宮城的老闆，兩位認為合作條件合適，便於去年12月開設日本境外第一間分店。在日本，竹宮城分兩條路線，每店只有一種食物，壽司或燒肉，香港店則兼售兩線出品，但偏重燒肉，壽司為次。香港店的師傅全部由日本竹宮城調派來港，所有器皿、食材同樣來自仙台，務以原裝風味呈現眼前。
試食報告
服務 壽司拼盤 選材師傅話事
食探體驗﹕菜牌中、日文兼備，但排列稍為混亂，幸得店員耐心介紹，並建議客人到壽司吧前揀選時令食品，令食探嘗到時令食材和招牌菜式。菜式一道接一道呈上，食探可逐一細味每一道菜。
店員Janice回應﹕店員並非日本人，但部分員工懂日文，能應付日籍客人需要。菜式分次序奉客是師傅要求。若客人點叫刺身或壽司拼盤，挑選哪一款食材是師傅決定，客人只可要求不吃什麼，但不可指定吃什麼，故店員不會明確告訴客人拼盤包羅哪款刺身。
環境 抽風力不足 炊煙刺眼
食探體驗﹕店子大廳以木色為主調，配以壽司吧及青竹，和風感十足，食探坐的廂房擺設與大廳無異，卻備有電視，耳邊響起日本音樂，同時傳來無铫電視《東張西望》聲音，破壞了場地的寧謐氛圍。燒肉時，房間抽風系統明顯不夠強，衣服沾上大量燒肉味外，炊煙更達「刺眼」程度。
店員Janice回應﹕香港店的設計與日本有別，但保留了竹宮城的元素，刺身櫃也由仙台運抵。老闆認為香港人需要電視，故特別在廂房裝置了一部，迎合需要。我們也知道抽風機不夠強，會盡快更換。
■食物
壽司拼盤 海膽腥魚子鮮
食探體驗﹕壽司賣相精緻，整齊並列，刺身肥美有光澤，令食探件件都想試，猶豫不決。米飯微溫，醋味恰當，黏稠適中，水準不錯。海膽與本地吃到的味道不同，此處吃到的味道較腥。三文魚子也與我們一貫咬下「卜」一聲爆開的口感不同，這裏的魚子不分外層內層，一粒魚子就是一個整體，沒有「卜」一聲的趣味，味卻更鮮。拖羅脂香四溢，飽滿豐腴。
總廚新妻康男回應﹕壽司拼盤的食材全部屬時令，故每次點叫，配搭都不一樣。米是仙台入口的ササニシキ米，沒有攙入其他米種，很純正。暖飯配冷魚，師傅手握後5秒是品嘗的最佳時間，客人坐在壽司吧，便能把握這最美味一刻。
和牛里脊肉 蘸海鹽夠滋味
食探體驗﹕本想點叫仙台名物——燒牛舌，可惜無貨。和牛油脂平均，略炙吃下，牛味並不突出，相反完全炙熟，肉味較豐。後來發現兩排牛肉味道不一，一排牛味較輕。餐廳提供兩款醬料，但食探發現蘸海鹽食用，更加滋味。
總廚新妻康男回應﹕此乃A3和牛，另有A5和牛選擇。夏天時戶外座位開放，客人可以炭燒牛肉，風味更佳。和牛味道不一，應是不同部位所致。
黑豚頸肉 油膩卻甘香
食探體驗﹕部分豚肉上桌時白色一片，只有脂肪沒有肉，燒香後雖然油膩，卻非常甘香，比預期中美味。同樣，灑上些許海鹽食用，更能引出肉香。
總廚新妻康男回應﹕此店用仙台黑豚肉，日本人燒烤時習慣一塊一塊的烤，肉片才不會變「柴口」。
刺身拼盤 貝類更勝魚類
食探體驗﹕刺身有8款，件頭小，數量也小，食探每人每款吃一件便已吃光。各款刺身都有新鮮食材才有的彈牙口感，平均而言，貝類比魚類的刺身更出色。
總廚新妻康男回應﹕所有刺身都由仙台石卷魚市場入口，一星期來貨2至3次，直接訂貨關係，每次運抵機場，不經中間人，廚師會在凌晨3時親自取貨，回店放入雪櫃，食材非常新鮮。若客人同時點叫壽司及刺身拼盤，師傅便會給與不同的刺身，盡量不重複。
Mission﹕在仙台及名古屋共有30間店的「竹宮城」，在香港開設首家海外分店，水準如何，馬上分曉！
後記：友人及後一試，水準以下，魚生乾水，難道意式 Parma Ham 融入此家烹調？好一篇鮮稿！
Sunday, March 2, 2008
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
New York's Best Burgers?
New York's Best Burgers? Here's What You Say: Richard Vines
2008-02-25 03:21 (New York)
By Richard Vines
Feb. 25 (Bloomberg) -- What does Bloomberg's London food critic do when he steps off the plane at JFK? He heads for Manhattan's burger joints and then tells New Yorkers what's best. Well, that's what I did. What I didn't do was risk admitting that some of my own favorite burger places are in London. And I didn't suggest that British chefs are a match for Americans. That might have been going a step too far. Nevertheless, my burger roundup seemed to have hit a gastronomical nerve. It was one of the most-read stories on the Bloomberg for Feb. 21, eclipsing such reports as a U.S. missile hitting a spy satellite, the latest saga of Societe Generale SA and tax evasion in Germany. And readers -- lots of them -- were quick to offer their own opinions. Here's some of that feedback:
``You are out of your mind: the Burger Joint burgers (similar to the Shake Shack) get all their reputation from being served in a cool location. The actual burgers are mediocre at best. I 100 percent agree with all your other recommendations though so please keep them coming.'' -- Andy Devries, New York.
``I would also check out Island Burgers and Shakes (51st and 9th Ave.). Huge variety of burgers, top quality meat and fantastic milkshakes (try the black & white). No fries, though, which is a bummer.'' -- Mark Rosen, New York.
``Next time you want a burger in NYC, try JG Melon's (74th and 3rd Ave.). Great classic version.'' -- Craig Bergstrom, New York.
``I think you should try the Electric Cinema in Portobello Road, London. They do REALLY great burgers, the best I have ever tasted.'' -- Stuart Colley, London.
``Too bad I live in Paris, and no one's ever thought of discovering and publishing the best burger joints here.'' -- Marc Nasser, Paris.
``What you left out: Jackson Hole. Very good and one of the best in the city: BLT Burger on 12th and 6th Ave. Well, tied with Corner Bistro.'' -- David Nowakowski, White Plains, New York.
``Did you get a chance to try the burger at Resto?'' Thomas Rein, New York.
``Five Guys only cooks meat one way -- well done, hockey-puck style. Get it to me rare!'' -- Kim Fonseca, West Palm Beach, Florida.
``I think you missed one that is a special treat, Daddy-O's. That bar in the West Village serves not only the best burger I have ever had, but also Tater Tots on the side!'' -- Robert Bacon, Stamford, Connecticut.
``You forgot JG Melon's.'' -- Joshua Greenwald, New York.
``I think you nailed it, especially the Corner Bistro. But why no love for Dire Straits? What could be better with a nice burger than some chill tunes?'' -- Dan Green, New York.
``Great article, although they didn't even have beer when I was last at DB Bistro Moderne so you couldn't even have a cold beer with your `burger.' I think they should call it something
else because it's not really a true burger with all that fancy jazz. Also, someone should try to copy In and Out Burgers and open one in New York, animal-style.'' -- A. Cooper, New York.
(Richard Vines is the London food critic for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)
--Editor: William Ahearn, Jim Ruane.
2008-02-25 03:21 (New York)
By Richard Vines
Feb. 25 (Bloomberg) -- What does Bloomberg's London food critic do when he steps off the plane at JFK? He heads for Manhattan's burger joints and then tells New Yorkers what's best. Well, that's what I did. What I didn't do was risk admitting that some of my own favorite burger places are in London. And I didn't suggest that British chefs are a match for Americans. That might have been going a step too far. Nevertheless, my burger roundup seemed to have hit a gastronomical nerve. It was one of the most-read stories on the Bloomberg for Feb. 21, eclipsing such reports as a U.S. missile hitting a spy satellite, the latest saga of Societe Generale SA and tax evasion in Germany. And readers -- lots of them -- were quick to offer their own opinions. Here's some of that feedback:
``You are out of your mind: the Burger Joint burgers (similar to the Shake Shack) get all their reputation from being served in a cool location. The actual burgers are mediocre at best. I 100 percent agree with all your other recommendations though so please keep them coming.'' -- Andy Devries, New York.
``I would also check out Island Burgers and Shakes (51st and 9th Ave.). Huge variety of burgers, top quality meat and fantastic milkshakes (try the black & white). No fries, though, which is a bummer.'' -- Mark Rosen, New York.
``Next time you want a burger in NYC, try JG Melon's (74th and 3rd Ave.). Great classic version.'' -- Craig Bergstrom, New York.
``I think you should try the Electric Cinema in Portobello Road, London. They do REALLY great burgers, the best I have ever tasted.'' -- Stuart Colley, London.
``Too bad I live in Paris, and no one's ever thought of discovering and publishing the best burger joints here.'' -- Marc Nasser, Paris.
``What you left out: Jackson Hole. Very good and one of the best in the city: BLT Burger on 12th and 6th Ave. Well, tied with Corner Bistro.'' -- David Nowakowski, White Plains, New York.
``Did you get a chance to try the burger at Resto?'' Thomas Rein, New York.
``Five Guys only cooks meat one way -- well done, hockey-puck style. Get it to me rare!'' -- Kim Fonseca, West Palm Beach, Florida.
``I think you missed one that is a special treat, Daddy-O's. That bar in the West Village serves not only the best burger I have ever had, but also Tater Tots on the side!'' -- Robert Bacon, Stamford, Connecticut.
``You forgot JG Melon's.'' -- Joshua Greenwald, New York.
``I think you nailed it, especially the Corner Bistro. But why no love for Dire Straits? What could be better with a nice burger than some chill tunes?'' -- Dan Green, New York.
``Great article, although they didn't even have beer when I was last at DB Bistro Moderne so you couldn't even have a cold beer with your `burger.' I think they should call it something
else because it's not really a true burger with all that fancy jazz. Also, someone should try to copy In and Out Burgers and open one in New York, animal-style.'' -- A. Cooper, New York.
(Richard Vines is the London food critic for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)
--Editor: William Ahearn, Jim Ruane.
Monday, February 25, 2008
食肆短評 - 10
Paul's Kitchen ：業餘水平，用料一般過一般，廚藝未見特出。Open kitchen 設計，抽風甚差，油煙味像唐人街，英國風味則欠。老細主廚和餐碟頗靚，女仕們如有興趣可一去。
G Gallery ：比 Le Mieux Bistro 略差，可去可不去。
Cafe 998 (謝菲道 E House)：人生中所遇到最差嘅茶餐廳，奉上福字麫配暖滾水和未拌均味包，真罪過！
Mi Casa Chilean Oyster Bar：晚膳訂座方知分開職工頭尾圍用膳 (6-9 pm; 9 pm onward)，有緣才會再試。
鋮記一品粥店 ：雞粥不俗，腸粉勿試！
G Gallery ：比 Le Mieux Bistro 略差，可去可不去。
Cafe 998 (謝菲道 E House)：人生中所遇到最差嘅茶餐廳，奉上福字麫配暖滾水和未拌均味包，真罪過！
Mi Casa Chilean Oyster Bar：晚膳訂座方知分開職工頭尾圍用膳 (6-9 pm; 9 pm onward)，有緣才會再試。
鋮記一品粥店 ：雞粥不俗，腸粉勿試！
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